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Anatomy of a Makeup Brush

3/11/2020

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You may think you already know- but do you really? Here is a breakdown of what each of the different elements are that make up a makeup brush!

Lets start with the most obvious piece: THE HANDLE
Typically made of wood and covered in varnish or paint, but can also be made of resin, acrylic, or plastic. Now there are also more sustainable options like bamboo handles. Here on the handle you will often find information like the brand name as well as the intended function or the identifying number of the brush style.

Now onto the other section that you can probably identify: THE BRISTLES
This is where the action happens! The bristles are the part of the brush that apply the product to the face. Within this area there are two sub-sections; the TOE and the HEEL. The toe is the tips, and the heel is where the bristles are secured to the brush. Bristles can be made from synthetic fibers, natural hairs, or a combination of the two. 
So what exactly does natural hairs mean? Well its animal hair, most often from goats, badgers, squirrels, weasels (sable), and horses (pony). Different animals have different hair types that make the brush more suited for different functions. For example badger hair is stiff and firm which works great for brow brushes, whereas goat hair is very soft making it best for a fluffier brush like for blush.
Natural hair brushes also have a cuticle which is a layered outer coating to the hair shaft. This cuticle is wonderful for picking up and distributing powder products. 
There are some strong feelings about natural hair brushes and I personally think that is up to each individual to decide if they are opposed to using them or not. It is almost impossible to find out if brands are utilizing humane ways of obtaining these hairs, but I will say that no one is killing any animals specifically to use the hair for makeup brushes. The hairs are a byproduct from other industries and some could look at is as a way of not letting any part of the animal go to waste.

Synthetic bristles on the other hand are made of 100% manufactured materials such as nylon or polyester. Since these "hairs" are not natural there is no cuticle so its smooth and doesn't trap as much product within its bristles making it perfect for products like creams and liquids. 
There is also a newer synthetic fibre that has been created called Natrafil that has a textured surface to more closely mimic a natural hair making it better suited to be used with powder products in place of animal hairs. The commonly held belief that synthetic brushes are no good with powder products is no longer the case thanks to new synthetics like this.
If you want to ensure your brushes are cruelty free stick with synthetic. But these brushes aren't completely without their own issues as some say the man made materials are not environmentally friendly since they are not biodegradable. Toss out a synthetic makeup brush and those bristles will sit in a landfill forever. 
Both synthetic and natural brushes serve different purposes, and ultimately it is up to each individual artist’s preference. Use what you’re most comfortable with!

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Finally lets talk about the part of the brush you are probably not as familiar with: THE FERRULE
 This part is usually made of metal like nickel plated brass or aluminum. You will recognize it as that typically silver section that connects the bristles to the handle. The bristles are held in place by the top of the ferrule, which is sometimes pinched flat, and a good dollop of glue. The bottom of the ferrule is glued to the handle too, so this is why you should never fully submerge your brushes in water or hold them right side up while washing them (glue + water = a bad time!). Higher quality brushes will also go the extra mile and will braid the hairs at the base that is then covered by the ferrule and glued. This results is less shedding and a longer life of the brush.



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As for the brushes in my kit I definitely have quite the assortment. Some of my brushes have been with me for the full almost 15 years of my career. I've got natural and synthetic and each one serves a purpose. I will say that now that there are much better synthetic options out there almost all of my more recent brush purchases have not been natural hair. Some of the brands that I like to use that I can spot in this pic from after a recent wedding are Laura Mercier, Bdellium, MAC, Sigma, Royal & Langnickel, Sonia Kashuk, and Real Techniques.

With proper care and cleaning of your brushes these little babies can easily last you decades! Who wants to hear about how I wash my brushes? Leave a comment below, and let me know some of your favorite makeup brush brands while you're at it!
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    `1Nothing frustrates me more than not being good at something.

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    I am a makeup artist by trade. Doing mostly makeup for branding and print shoots. It is not lost on me that I am very fortunate that I get to do something I love for a living. I also teach makeup to aspiring makeup artists and found a deep passion for teaching and sharing about this industry. Another aspect of the makeup world that I truly enjoy is testing out and learning about products and tools.

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